Tag: essential

Banana Sucker control

Banana Suckericide, Side Shoots remover, Sucker Controller

MUSA-8 de-suckering agent offered by us is an exclusive range of Banana Suckericide. Our range has contact type suckericide, which is made from natural fatty alcohols to eliminate suckers arising from the base of banana plants. Application of MUSA-8 suckericide eliminates banana base suckers within 5-10 days and improves quality and quantity of banana fruit.

 

On application of MUSA-8 suckericide labour cost is decreased and development of banana increases gradually. Yield of banana fruit increases by 25% – 35%

How to Apply

Keeping too many sucking plants will reduce yields. It is advisable to remove all suckers once the desired followers have been selected.
Firstly cut the unwanted suckers / side shoots near the mother plant 4” above the field level horizontally. After 30 minutes pierce the central part of the sucker with a knife and remove it gently to hold just 2 drops of MUSA-8 suckericide at the top. The treated suckers turns into brown/black in colour and in a few days suckers will be no more in existence.
 

Packing Available : 1 Litre, 5 Litres, 50 Litres & 200 Litres

 

Banana Suckericides

Banana Suckericide, Side Shoots remover, Sucker Controller

 

MUSA-8 de-suckering agent offered by us is an exclusive range of Banana Suckericide. Our range has contact type suckericide, which is made from natural fatty alcohols to eliminate suckers arising from the base of banana plants. Application of MUSA-8 suckericide eliminates banana base suckers within 5-10 days and improves quality and quantity of banana fruit.

 

On application of MUSA-8 suckericide labour cost is decreased and development of banana increases gradually. Yield of banana fruit increases by 25% – 35%

How to Apply

Keeping too many sucking plants will reduce yields. It is advisable to remove all suckers once the desired followers have been selected.
Firstly cut the unwanted suckers / side shoots near the mother plant 4” above the field level horizontally. After 30 minutes pierce the central part of the sucker with a knife and remove it gently to hold just 2 drops of MUSA-8 suckericide at the top. The treated suckers turns into brown/black in colour and in a few days suckers will be no more in existence.
 

Packing Available : 1 Litre, 5 Litres, 50 Litres & 200 Litres

 

 

 

16 ESSENTIAL NUTRIENTS IN CROP DEVELOPMENT

Sixteen plant food nutrients are essential for proper crop development. Each is equally important to the plant, yet each is required in vastly different amounts. These differences have led to the grouping of these essential elements into three categories; primary (macro) nutrients, secondary nutrients, and micronutrients.

PRIMARY (MACRO) NUTRIENTS

Primary (macro) nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. They are the most frequently required in a crop fertilization program. Also, they are need in the greatest total quantity by plants as fertilizer.

NITROGEN

  • Necessary for formation of amino acids, the building blocks of protein
    · Essential for plant cell division, vital for plant growth
    · Directly involved in photosynthesis
    · Necessary component of vitamins
    · Aids in production and use of carbohydrates
    · Affects energy reactions in the plant

PHOSPHORUS

  • Involved in photosynthesis, respiration, energy storage and transfer, cell division, and enlargement
    · Promotes early root formation and growth
    · Improves quality of fruits, vegetables, and grains
    · Vital to seed formation
    · Helps plants survive harsh winter conditions
    · Increases water-use efficiency
    · Hastens maturity

POTASSIUM
· Carbohydrate metabolism and the break down and translocation of starches
· Increases photosynthesis
· Increases water-use efficiency
· Essential to protein synthesis
· Important in fruit formation
· Activates enzymes and controls their reaction rates
· Improves quality of seeds and fruit
· Improves winter hardiness
· Increases disease resistance

SECONDARY NUTRIENTS
The secondary nutrients are calcium, magnesium, and sulphur. For most crops, these three are needed in lesser amounts that the primary nutrients. They are growing in importance in crop fertilization programs due to more stringent clean air standards and efforts to improve the environment.

CALCIUM
· Utilized for Continuous cell division and formation
· Involved in nitrogen metabolism
· Reduces plant respiration
· Aids translocation of photosynthesis from leaves to fruiting organs
· Increases fruit set
· Essential for nut development in peanuts
· Stimulates microbial activity

MAGNESIUM
· Key element of chlorophyll production
· Improves utilization and mobility of phosphorus
· Activator and component of many plant enzymes
· Directly related to grass tetany
· Increases iron utilization in plants
· Influences earliness and uniformity of maturity

SULPHUR
· Integral part of amino acids
· Helps develop enzymes and vitamins
· Promotes nodule formation on legumes
· Aids in seed production
· Necessary in chlorophyll formation (though it isn’t one of the constituents)

MICRONUTRIENTS

The micronutrients are boron, chlorine, cooper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. These plant food elements are used in very small amounts, but they are just as important to plant development and profitable crop production as the major nutrients. Especially, they work “behind the scene” as activators of many plant functions.

BORON

  • Essential of germination of pollon grains and growth of pollen tubes
    · Essential for seed and cell wall formation
    · Promotes maturity
    · Necessary for sugar translocation
    · Affects nitrogen and carbohydrate

CHLORINE

  • Not much information about its functions
    · Interferes with P uptake
    · Enhances maturity of small grains on some soils

COPPER

  • Catalyzes several plant processes
    · Major function in photosynthesis
    · Major function in reproductive stages
    · Indirect role in chlorophyll production
    · Increases sugar content
    · Intensifies color
    · Improves flavor of fruits and vegetables

IRON

  • Promotes formation of chlorophyll
    · Acts as an oxygen carrier
    · Reactions involving cell division and growth

MAGANESE

  • Functions as a part of certain enzyme systems
    · Aids in chlorophyll synthesis
    · Increases the availability of P and CA

MOLYBDENUM

  • Required to form the enzyme “nitrate reductas” which reduces nitrates to ammonium in plant
    · Aids in the formation of legume nodules
    · Needed to convert inorganic phosphates to organic forms in the plant

ZINC

  • Aids plant growth hormones and enzyme system
    · Necessary for chlorophyll production
    · Necessary for carbohydrate formation
    · Necessary for starch formation
    · Aids in seed formation

 

In addition to the 13 nutrients listed above, plants require carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, which are extracted from air and water to make up the bulk of plant weight.

 


Sulfur deficiency

Sulfur deficiency

 

Sulfur (S) is a part of every living cell and is a constituent of two of the 20 amino acids that form proteins. Unlike the other secondary nutrients like calcium and magnesium (which plants take up as cations), S is absorbed primarily as the S042- anion. It can also enter plant leaves from the air as dioxide (SO2) gas.

A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Often overlooked, sulfur (S) can be that weak link in many soil fertility and plant nutrition programs. As of late, there are several reasons for the increased observance of S deficiencies and increased S needs.

Government regulations now restrict the amount of sulfur dioxide (SO2) that can be returned to the atmosphere from coal-burning furnaces. Most of the S is now removed from natural gas used in home heating and in industry. Also, catalytic converters in new automobiles remove most of the S that was previously returned to the atmosphere when S-containing gasoline was burned in automobiles. In addition, S-free compounds have replaced many of the insecticides and fungicides formerly applied to control insects and diseases in crops. As a result of these government restrictions, less S returns to the soil in rainfall.

Sulfur is supplied to plants from the soil by organic matter and minerals, but it’s often present in insufficient quantities and at inopportune times for the needs of many high-yielding crops. Organic matter ties up most S to the soil, where it remains unavailable to plants until soil bacteria convert it to sulfate (SO4-2) form. That process is known as mineralization.

Just like nitrate nitrogen (N), sulfate moves through the soil and can leach beyond the active root zone in some soils during heavy rainfall or irrigation. Sulfate may move back upward toward the soil surface as water evaporates, except in the sandier, coarse-textured soils that may be void of capillary pores. This mobility of sulfate S makes it difficult to calibrate soil tests and use them as predictive tools for S fertilization needs.

In the field, plants deficient in S show pale green coloring of the younger leaves, although the entire plant can be pale green and stunted in severe cases. Leaves tend to shrivel as the deficiency progresses.

Sulfur, like N, is a constituent of proteins, so deficiency symptoms are similar to those of N. Nitrogen-deficiency symptoms are more severe on older leaves, however, because N is a mobile plant nutrient and moves to new growth. Sulfur, on the other hand, is immobile in the plant, so new growth suffers first when S levels are not adequate to meet the plant’s need. This difference is important in distinguishing between N and S deficiencies, particularly in early stages.

 

 

Symptoms of deficiency can vary across crop species, but similarities exist for how nutrient insufficiency impacts plant tissue color and appearance. Nutrient deficiencies are commonly associated with the physical location on the plant
(i.e., whether the symptoms are primarily observed on older versus newly formed plant tissue), but these symptoms can spread as the severity of the deficiency progresses.

 


Oxygen

Oxygen

Oxygen (O) is responsible for cellular respiration in plants. Plants acquire O by breaking down carbon dioxide (CO2) during photosynthesis and end up releasing the majority of it as an unnecessary byproduct, saving a small portion for future energy.

 

Organic Fertilizers

Sooner or later, every gardener discovers that for good results — whether in the vegetable garden, perennial border, or lawn — replenishing soil nutrients is necessary. And one of the key choices is whether to use organic or synthetic fertilizers. Synthetic fertilizers are manufactured. Organic fertilizers are derived from plants and animals, and from naturally occurring mineral fertilizers.

Why Use Organic Fertilizers?

One advantage of organic fertilizers is that their nutrients are doled out as a steady diet in sync with plant needs. Because the nutrients come from natural sources, a portion of them may be temporarily unavailable to plants until released by a combination of warmth and moisture — the same conditions plants need to grow. Released slowly, the nutrients from organic fertilizers are unlikely to burn plant roots or be leached away by water. And a single application may last a whole growing season.

You also might choose organic fertilizers for philosophical or environmental reasons. Organic fertilizers generally place fewer demands on energy resources, and they offer opportunities to recycle “garbage”.

The more concentrated a fertilizer (even an organic one), the less organic matter it contains. Fertilizers containing high concentrations of nitrogen, when used alone, can actually deplete soil organic matter, so if you use any such fertilizer, apply plenty of bulky organic matter, too. Dig materials such as straw, peat, compost, and leaves into the soil, or lay them on as mulch.

Naturally occurring mineral fertilizers are organic in the “not-synthetic” sense, but because they don’t contain organic matter, they’re not included in this list. Among them are Chilean nitrate, rock phosphate, greensand, and sulfate of potash magnesia.

Synthetic fertilizers do have some advantages. They cost less, are easier to transport, and are more uniform in nutrient content. All but controlled-release synthetic fertilizers are more quickly available to plants than organic fertilizers.

Why fertilize? Fertilizers are necessary make up for nutrients that are naturally carried down into the groundwater by rainfall, carried off into the air as gases, and carried into the kitchen by you. At least 16 nutrient elements are necessary for plant growth, but plants need three — nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (referred to by the elemental symbols N, P, and K) — in relatively large quantities. Most soils contain large reserves of the other 13 nutrients — especially calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, zinc, and manganese — that might also hitchhike along when you fertilize with “the big three.”

The only way to know for sure if your garden requires fertilizers is to have the soil tested. The cooperative extension services in most states test garden soil for a nominal fee. Also check telephone directories for “soil testing laboratories.”

When to Apply. The best times to apply organic fertilizers are early spring and fall — or even a few months — before planting, because that allows time for soil microbes to digest the organic matter and transform nutrients into forms plants can use.

How to Apply. When you apply organic fertilizers, there’s no need to dig them deep into the soil. Plants’s feeder roots are mostly near the soil surface, and low oxygen levels deep in the soil would retard microbial growth, slowing nutrient release from organic fertilizers. Make an exception to that no-dig rule if a soil test shows that phosphorus levels are low. This nutrient moves very slowly, so the only way to spread it quickly through the root zone is to mix it into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil.

Always wear a dust mask when you apply bonemeal, guano, or any other type of fertilizer that’s dusty. All dusts are potential lung irritants.

How Much to Apply. The actual amount to apply will vary, depending on the results of a soil test and the rate of nutrient release from a particular fertilizer. A rough rule is: Apply approximately 2 pounds of actual nitrogen (100 pounds of 10-10-10 contains 10 pounds of “actual” nitrogen) per 1,000 square feet, or 0.2 pounds per 100 square feet. Apply the other key nutrients plants take from soil — phosphorus and potassium — at about one-tenth this rate, unless a soil test specifies otherwise.

In catalogs and garden centers, you can find many different kinds of organic fertilizers. Other kinds are either custom blends, or materials that are available in limited quantities or only regionally. All fit into one of the basic categories — plant, animal, compost, or manure — that are further described below.

Plant Substances or By-products. Fertilizers that are plant substances or by-products are often rich in nitrogen, sometimes in potassium. These fertilizers can be considered renewable resources, but you should take into account the resources that may have been needed to grow as well as process or transport them. Some, such as beet pulp and cottonseed meal, are by-products of other industries.

  • Alfalfa meal and pellets contain nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Some rose growers report good results when it is used as a mulch.
  • The dried, shredded remains of sugar beets after the juices and sugars are extracted are sold as organic fertilizer. They are rich in nitrogen.
  • Corn gluten is a high-nitrogen fertilizer with the unique ability to inhibit germination of seeds. With it you can feed your lawn and prevent crabgrass at the same time.
  • Cottonseed meal is made from the remains of cotton seeds after the oil is pressed out. It is a high-nitrogen fertilizer, but some growers have concerns about pesticide contamination of the meal. Cotton is a heavily sprayed crop, but pesticide-free cottonseed meal is available.
  • The extracts or pulverized parts of several seaweeds and kelp are good sources of minerals, potassium, and sometimes nitrogen. Follow application directions carefully when spraying on leaves, because sea plants can affect plant growth when sprayed directly on leaves.
  • Soybean meal is a high-nitrogen fertilizer that’s very similar to its better-known cousin, cottonseed meal. For the best price, look for it at animal feed-supply stores.

Animal processing by-products. Industries such as dairy farming and meat processing generate waste materials that are dried or minimally processed into fertilizers. None of these materials is derived from “certified organic” animals.

  • Blood meal is a rich source of nitrogen that is quickly available, so use with care.
  • Bonemeal is a rich source of phosphorus and calcium, and it supplies moderate amounts of nitrogen. “Steamed” bonemeal has less nitrogen but somewhat faster nutrient availability than “raw” bonemeal.
  • Fish products can be fairly rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, but read the labels because nutrient concentrations vary.

Composts. These are the “Cadillacs” of organic fertilizers. Although making compost from a variety of raw materials is possible, the finished products are remarkably similar in their final concentrations of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Composts generally contain a good balance and wide spectrum of nutrients, and they’re rich in humus — so rich in humus, in fact, that their actual nutrient concentrations are relatively low.

Composts are available commercially or can be homemade. They can be used along with other fertilizers. Ingredients in commercial composts include various kinds of animal manures and lawn and garden wastes. Homemade fertilizer is a way to deal with “waste” and make fertilizer simultaneously — and you always know what ingredients went into the finished product.

Manures. Manures used as organic fertilizers are derived from humans, animals, and in one case, insects; manures are available fresh or dried; however, use composted manure whenever possible.

The composition of various manures vary not only with the kind of animal source, but also with the age of the animal, the bedding, and method of manure storage and application.

  • Cow manure is low in nutrients, but plants can absorb them moderately quickly.
  • Manure from seabirds or bats are rich in nutrients, but not in organic matter. Highly soluble and quickly available nutrients are useful early in season to stimulate vegetative growth. But be careful: high-nitrogen guanos may burn plants. Several types are available: Texan bat (10-4-2), Ancient seabird (0-12-1), and Peruvian seabird (14-11-2) are examples. All guanos can be mixed with water, steeped, and applied as a liquid.
  • Commercially available insect manure, cricket manure, is relatively nutrient-rich.
  • Poultry manure is relatively high in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
  • Composted sludges are rich in slowly available nitrogen. If industrial wastes are included, contaminants, such as heavy metals, are present. Though approved for vegetable gardening by the Environmental Protection Agency, these fertilizers are not acceptable for organic gardening.
  • Worm castings are similar to compost in their composition and are equally easy to produce at home. Because nutrient levels are so low in worm castings, they are — like compost — considered more a soil amendment than a fertilizer.

Much of the benefit of organic fertilizers comes not from the nutrients, but from the organic matter — the bulk — the fertilizers contain. Among other benefits, organic matter helps soils hold water and air, makes nutrients already in the soil more available, and helps prevent diseases.

Don’t spurn organic fertilizers that are low in nutrients, because they’re rich in organic matter that turns to valuable humus in the soil.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tips to lead a healthy life

Proximity to nature on one hand helps a person maintain physical health and remain disease-free. On the other hand, practice of yoga gives several health related benefits. Both healthy and unhealthy people can follow these simple tips and lead happy and healthy life.
Drink one or two glasses of water kept in a copper container after waking up in the morning. If copper container is not available, use pure fresh drinking water. Drink water (at least three cups) every two hours.

Practice brisk walking for 30 minutes daily after morning chores. Spend some time doing yoga asana, pranayama, surya namaskara, gardening, swimming or any other exercise of your choice.
Chew your food properly before swallowing and do not speak while eating. Eat sufficient food and do not fill the stomach completely. Take two meals a day, seven hours apart.

The best time for meals is before 11 a.m and 7 p.m. Soak grains, pulses and dry fruits overnight and use. The food should include 1/3rd portion of grains and pulses and the rest should include green vegetables. Take 20 percent cooked food and 80 percent raw food.Use low cholesterol oil for cooking and that too in very minimum quantity. Eat raw fruits, vegetables, sprouts, green leafy vegetables, seasonal fruits, salad, and fruit juice, coriander and mint chutney. The chapattis should be made with whole-wheat flour, eat unpolished rice and drink soup. Steam cooked food is also healthy.

Take lukewarm water mixed with lemon juice and honey instead of tea, take diluted curd or buttermilk instead of milk and jaggery in place of sugar.Sit in Vajrasana for 10 to 15 minutes after every meal.Use a hard bed to sleep on and a very thin flat pillow. Try to overcome all the worries before going to bed.
Lie down turning to your left after eating. There should be a gap of 15 minutes between meals and sleeping time.

Take deep breath and sit straight. It is a good practice to clean your stomach two to four times a day and take bath with cold or fresh water twice daily. Massage the hands after taking bath and try to dry the water. Then use a towel. Offer prayers twice daily; once before sunrise and again before bedtime.

Take salt, sugar, spices, pulses, clarified butter, ice cream, cooked food, potato etc. in limited quantity. Avoid wearing high-heeled sandals, shoes, watching television or cinema in excess and practicing tiring exercises.

Avoid tea, coffee, smoking, alcohol, and other such practices. Avoid refined flour and things made with it, polished rice, non-vegetarian food, processed food, adulterated food containing added colours, artificial food, etc.

Avoid consumption of dalda, oil, artificial food or cold drinks (soft drinks); do not eat unwillingly, in a worried state, when ill, or without feeling hungry. Do not eat very hot or very cold food. Protect yourself from noise, wind, and water. Use of harmful cosmetics, artificial fabrics, and soaps should be reduced.

Drink water half an hour before and after meals.Do not take sleeping pills, in case of sleeplessness, place a wet towel on the stomach (soak it in water and squeeze the water) and cover the body with a blanket or light quilt. Avoid meals at very late hours. Avoid being awake late in the night, or eating heavy or fried food.

Rinse the mouth thoroughly after every meal.
Brush your teeth in the morning and night. Chew carrot, radish, coconut, sugar cane, aniseed, and sesame etc. to strengthen the teeth.

Eat food rich in mineral and vitamin; including lemon juice, myrobalan, papaya, guava, tomato, carrot, etc.

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